Fall Winter 2014: A tale of four cities

I have mulled over the collections, analysed and picked its FINEST, and here is a run through of the main themes and trends of the Fall Winter 2014 collections.

While fashion trends are renewed, altered or forgotten every few months cultural trends endure, with New York, London, Milan and Paris looking to dress within their own country or at least the women who they believe they should be dressing. Interest from the big spending, emerging economies is central to the collections’ success, but for the past two seasons it appears that the four cardinals of fashion have been looking inwards and not outwards. There are of course many trends that transcend borders, in the Fall Winter 2014 yet there is a definite digression of aesthetic from city to city.

Thus the moods of the collections differ from one city to another, with a few overarching themes such as grunge and medieval, now I want to see a die-hard fashionista trying to combine the two and not looking like an extra from Twilight.

Silhouette-wise the camps are firmly divided between forties fit and flare and top heavy oversize volumes, with a few designers choosing to stay neutral with some masculine tailoring with restrained yet oversize shapes.

The overcoat is a protagonist of the Fall Winter 2014 season, being the canvas upon which many designers experiment with cuts, volumes and fabrics. The dress, a firm favourite and an evergreen, which comes up trumps over any trend, is still going strong and graced the runways in many shapes, silhouettes and forms.

The colour palette is firmly anchored in the greys, both as yarn dyes and as prints. 

Masculine fabrics like herringbone, check, Prince of Wales, and tweed underpin the greyscale of the season. Tartan leads the way with the accent colours such as red,blue and hints of fuchsia. A pretty blush pink, which is warmer than nude but less bright than pink has cropped up in many runways, and amongst the rigour and architecture it acts like a passing reference to the loss of romanticism from the season, and perhaps from our lives.  Finally, winter whites have become increasingly popular over the recent seasons with Fall Winter 2014 becoming a victim of a white avalanche.

Trend-setters have been looking back through the ages visiting the 50s and 60s several times, the 70s and the 80s and even hints of 90s. A look some designers have been toying with for a while has now taken over the runways, the 40s. The looks are feminine, elegant yet restrained, and firmly anchored in wartime Europe.

Men’s looks adopted in the womenswear sphere are often referred to as structured or sharp or tailored. This season its about shape and dimensions, so very architectural or engineered.

Grunge, yes, its back and its very controversial. Classic labels have been redefined with strong grunge elements this season causing quite a stir. To get the look: leather biker jacket, boots and an angry expression.

In stark contrast to the 40s, and the grunge and the architectural, many designers throughout the cities have been wooed by the medieval damsel look. Is fashion hinting that we need to be recued from the tower?

Its official, grey is the new black! Fashion has been hinting that grey is the must have colour for a few season, but for those of us who pay attention to menswear we knew that the Fall Winter 2014 colour was going to be grey.

Accent colours this season are primary: red and blue. Electric blue, navy and dark azure shades contrast with blood red, burgundy and lacca red on the opposite side of the scale.

I’ve often thought that there is noting chicer than wearing white in winter. This season we have plenty of opportunities, with white contaminating outerwear, dresses, tailoring and accessories.

Maybe because of the masculine tailoring, or because of the Forties feel, tailoring fabrics like pin stripes and Prince of Wales check are fashioned into suits, dresses, capes and even culottes.

Chiffon, organza, charmeuse, are all present in the 2014 Fall Winter collections and will satisfy the needs of any womanly woman. Sheer, printed or embroidered, flowing silky fabrics are in.

Metallics are as strong as ever this season. Shimmering, almost wet fabrics with hints of lurex ebbed and flowed down the catwalk in a river of molten silver and gold.

Of course with Grunge being an important overarching trend, the presence of leather on this list is not surprising. This season though leather is not confined to biker jackets, but has been fashioned into suits, dresses, skirts and coats.

The arguments of animal rights activists have been ignored and the Fall Winter 2014 catwalks were a veritable menagerie of furs. Antelope, mink, ermine, and fox were all present. Fur however became also a medium for experimentation with many items being far removed from the traditional fur coat.

Luxurious embroidery on pretty dresses makes most women swoon. For the Fall Winter 2014 season there were plenty of reasons for magpies to shriek with excitement in front of shimmering crystals and pearls. Embroidery this season was also scaled back to its original meaning, with beautiful stitched embroideries.

Pretty flower prints are a surprising addition to the Fall Winter 2014 collections. Largely multi-coloured roses are printed on organza and satin as well as jacquard, knits and even leather.

Checks and tartan have made a huge come back this season. Interpreted in classic reds or greys, as well as spruced up in a variety of colours and uses, checks are definitely a trend to embrace come next winter.

With so much fur, the animalistic elements of the collections continued with animal prints emblazoned upon suits, dresses, fur coats and shirts.

A testament to the Forties feel of the collections, the skirt suit is an undisputed protagonist of the runways. Some of these outfits are made more special by the fit and flared skirt, which adds movement to the silhouette, while some oversize or over long blazers play with dimensions making the suits feel thoroughly modern.

The architectural feel of the season is no more visible than in the new sleeves. Oversize, top-heavy silhouettes are dominant and the sleeves prove to be the linchpin of the looks. Wide, tapered, raglan or padded, sleeves are structured and give a contemporary feel to any outfit.

Contemplating Fall Winter 2014 Menswear Trends

I've reviewed and edited the major trends from the London, Milan and Paris shows for your pleasure.

A general air of restraint hung over the collections this season (to a lesser extent in London with some men-dresses getting tongues wagging) and realised in a range of different ways. Seen in the context of the current European financial crisis they provide as a socio-political barometer of how the countries hosting fashion weeks have related to the handling of crises throughout the centuries: some go minimal, some gomilitary and some experiment. 

Fashion, being just a guide to the general mood and the social context, chose to express a positive outlook in terms of very commercial minimalism, and some unconventional treatment of classic styles.

Tailoring remains strong in menswear, with the return of the double-breasted blazer cemented in well structured tailoring as well as some less formal and softer silhouettes brought forward by the three button blazers or boxy coats. Emphasis on fabrics and research provide a luxurious feel to the collections, and distance them from the sometimes 90s reminiscent silhouettes.

In keeping with the minimalist overarching trend of the season, grey is the main colour, with some elegant accents like burgundy, blue and teal, and some more fashion forwards oranges and electric blues.

Overall the season’s collections traced well-trodden paths, with some designers choosing to anchor themselves to the familiar, like military inspiration and the return of the pea coat, while others, looked towards the heavens for a devotional muse.

Various tones of grey characterised the Fall Winter runways. From elegant suits to classic coats the colour was everywhere. Do not be fooled by thinking classic and boring, grey was interpreted from crest-emblazed sportswear to intarsia to needle point flower prints.

Classic autumnal colours like burgundy and blue, both navy and electric, make for elegant accent colours for the more tailored looks. Teal, the new must have colour for the Fall Winter season makes for an elegant match to the greys, both for casual and occasion wear.

Tartan, check, houndstooth and Prince of Wales fabrics are a big trend this season. Oversize, optical or classic, we see them edging into most elements on the runway, coats, suits, shirts and tops.  Sometimes unusual colour combinations or uses propel these fabrics classic into the fashion forward sphere of the season.

Fur is edging its way back to menswear fashion, and for Fall Winter 2014 it has dominated the runways in London, Milan and Paris. Unconventional, is the keyword, such as mixes of different types of fur or printed pony skin, which allow for a varied choice.

Leather fans listen up! Leather is back and it’s big for Fall Winter 2014. Leather jackets, inserts, shirts, oversize coats, trenches and trousers come in various colours and add some rocker glamour to the collections.

While remaining classic in its use, the coat has undergone a transformation in terms of silhouette. A true bastion of the minimal feel of the season, the coat becomes loose fitting, semi structured and not busied by seams and accessories.

The military origin of the pea coat cements it as a trendy outerwear choice for Fall Winter 2014. Well loved amongst men for its versatility and classic appeal, the pea coat has become a real staple. This season it takes on new guises, truncated, elongated, patterned or with contrasting coloured accessories.

Structure returns to the runway in terms of the double-breasted blazer. Boxy silhouettes and structured shoulders may be a 90s throwback, but re invented with a very up to the minute minimalist 21st century feel.

The retro feel of the Fall Winter 2014 collections continues with the return of the 3-button blazer. Boxy and structured the 3-button blazer offers a more casual alternative to the double-breasted version. Be inspired by the collections and wear it with knits.

Feeling disappointed by the lack of experimentation? You needn’t be. For Fall Winter 2014 lapels and collars have been mislaid. Yes, collarless and lapels less outerwear and blazers represent the more risk taking side of the collection. Spruce up your tailoring and rip off the excess. Minimalism anyone?

Sportswear, with particular reference to quilting and skiwear is a presence on the Fall Winter 2014 catwalks. Metallic, brash and oversize it looks like the slopes will invade the cities come next winter. Sportswear also influenced a strong silhouette, cinched waits and trousers cuffs reminiscent of shell suits.

Trousers have undertaken a bit of a restyling for Fall Winter 2014. High waist, and cropped to the ankle, or the calf, the shape is fundamentally different from last winter. Maybe a nod to global warming, or to please the southern hemisphere clientele, some more eclectic designers have gone as far as showing shorts on the runways.

One of the most discreet but successful elements of real luxury in the Fall Winter 2013 collections are present in knitwear. Fine wools like cashmere are textured and patterned with unique techniques like hole punching once the garment is completed to produce exquisite knits for the season.

Again for those on the prowl for the new and different, there are plenty of unconventional tops on the Fall Winter 2014 runways. Boxy, jewel encrusted, pony skinned, quilted leather or just simple maxi paisley printed, tops and t-shirts have taken on a new and sometimes surprising look.

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TIMO WEILAND FALL/WINTER 2013 2014,2013, charlie westerberg, chris colton, david hlinka, fall 2014, guerrino santulliana, ian sharp, lookbook, paris nicholson, timo weiland

Country Meets City–Juxtaposing a British sensibility with an urban draw, Timo Weiland maintains a tight focus for the fall/winter 2013 season. Armed with smart garments for the essentials of today’s world, trousers are tapered and pleated to be paired with knitwear, jackets and shirting. Adding ribbing to knits and dressing the bomber as well for a sleek modern fit, lightweight jackets trimmed with shearling complete the collection of versatile pieces.

2013, charlie westerberg, chris colton, david hlinka, fall 2014, guerrino santulliana, ian sharp, lookbook, paris nicholson, timo weiland