MaxMara declared it was going back to its roots this season—and that was a good thing. The company has always had a tradition of filtering current fashion into accessible citywear and, at best, it was nothing too tricky or statement-y to limit their versatility. Because they’re Italian, they have a second innate corporate advantage: long experience in designing clothes that function smartly in hot climates. Their starting point for this collection was one of the cornerstones of MaxMara, the trench coat, and it was explored for its army connotations, with an accent on colonial-safari styling.
What worked well was a subtle nod toward fashion’s current interest in patchwork that produced smart-casual pieces like tops with a lightweight knitted front and a silk back, cut with a shirttail to wear over pencil skirts, and the vertical paneling of mixed prints—madras checks, animal and pansy print—in skirts and dresses. Other hybrids came as epauletted beige organza camp shirts and anoraks, cut with a puffy volume as a way to assimilate the notion of oversize without overwhelming the body. None of it particularly screamed military or was so bolted into an overmatched total look that it would preclude being split up and used in a relaxed way with other kinds of clothes. A utilitycollection, in both senses of the word.
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